Helmsley, is a market town that nestles on the southern edge of the North Yorkshire Moors.
As a small market town it can get very busy during the height of the tourist season, but visiting early one Saturday morning in September I had no problem getting parked in either the market place, or the nearby longer stay car park.
Probably the thing I like most about Helmsley is the fact it appears to be a town that globalisation forgot. Taking a look around the main shopping area is an absolutely pleasure because of the sheer excitement. If you are looking for major chain brands forget it. Try another town. I literally lost count of the shops enetitled XXXXXXX of Helmsley. (Subsitute any name you like for the XXXXX’s) This takes you back in time when it comes to shopping. Each time you pass through a door you don’t know the layout of the shop you will find and the staff are genuinely keen to talk to you. Why? They each have a vested interest in the success of their place of employment. It is also probably one of the few towns where you will find a well stocked, independent bookshop as well.
Helmsley Castle, is operated and managed by English Heritage. It’s literally a couple of minutes walk from the market place before you reach this ruined castle from the 12th Century. It is impressive enough to dominate the skyline of the area without overpowering all the other picturesque buildings in the town.
If you are lucky, you will hear the church bells peeling during your visit.Wherever you are in the town, you will be able to hear when they start, however, the volume is not sufficient to drown out conversation. It provides a pleasant musical backdrop that adds something to the experience.
Moving back to the market place, the central feature is a statue raised by tennants, in honour of the second Lord Feversham. Works like this, paid for by public subscription remain rare and this shows the level of affection and respect the 2nd Lord enjoyed from those on the estate.
It would be interesting to see the 2nd Lord’s reaction to such a mighty statue in his name, watching over those in the centre of the town.
Having had a good look around the town centre I started to make may way back to the Cleveland Way car park, heading towards the rear of the castle.
Memorial to 2nd Baron Feversham, Helmsley Market Place
The reason for me heading to the rear of castle, wasn’t to visit the walled garden that was nearby, but to call in on Keith Pickering, simply known as The Stick Man. This isn’t a comment on the man’s physique, but rather about his product line. Keith, is a mater craftsman producing all styles of walking sticks. From custom made, horn carved shepherd’s crooks, to silver topped canes, to the ever popular thumstick, he produces them all in his workshop in the craft units next to the walled garden. His work has featured on television, in Emmerdale and Heartbeat, and the stick used by actress Emma Thompson in the film Nanny McPhee was a custom made creation of his as well. (If you’re interested in how this stick came to life, take a look at the article here.) It was a privilege to watch this craftsman working with living material and wandering in, without a clear idea of what I was looking for, I received the expert advice I was looking for. As a result, I walked away with a made to measure stick that will give me years of service whilst I’m out walking and photographing.
Whilst in the area, it seemed daft not to drive by Rievaulx Abbey, that is a story for another time.
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