Having landed at the ferry terminal a Craignure, we [...]]]> Mull is probably my favourite of all the Scottish Isles. There is a strange magical prescience there for me. So to find a special place, on a special island, really is a rare find.

Having landed at the ferry terminal a Craignure, we headed SW along the A849 towards Fionnphort. Whilst an “A” class road sounds substantial, on Mull, much of the main road is single track. A quick tip: Keep your eyes peeled for oncoming traffic so you can anticipate when to use the passing places. Also watch your rear view mirror for Buses. They’re on a schedule to get people from the Ferry at Craignure, to the Iona Ferry leaving Fionnphort and local protocol dictates you should pull in and let them pass.

Reaching the sign for Strathcoil, we turned south along another single track road. What followed was a lovely forty minute drive that took us through woodland, along the banks of Loch Speive and Loch Uisg. At times the road passed really close to the water, however, rather than being a threat, this provided an opportunity to get an even better view of the wildlife of the area. As luck would have it, we had this road pretty much to ourselves, though driving it in February may also have helped.

The main purpose of our visit was to reach the stone circle, where nine granite stones, remain standing since the Neolithic Era. There is a well marked path from the parking area to the Stone Circle, however be warned. We visited in February, and had to do a serious amount of bog-hopping to get to the circle, so unless you are prepared to get a little dirty, you may want to leave your visit to the summer months. Having the made the effort, in pouring rain, we were rewarded with the exceptionally well preserved stone circle.

When walking in the area it does pay to have your whits about you. It was after visiting the stone circle, we realised we were no longer alone. We had been joined by two deer, grazing amongst the vegetation quite simply watching us, watching them.

Unfortunately, this is not the case.

Yesterday, I joined a group of people at a protest rally at Hamsterley Forest, in Teesdale, County. [...]]]> It seems a lot of people are under the impression that the sell off of publicly owned forests has been cancelled and the fight has been won.

Unfortunately, this is not the case.

Yesterday, I joined a group of people at a protest rally at Hamsterley Forest, in Teesdale, County. (North East England)

I got the chance to stand on ground a little higher than the rest and I took a good look at members of the crowd. They were not your “usual suspects” that would associate with a protest. There were grandparents with children, family groups, people on bikes, foot and horses. There were posh people, academics, working people, retired people, children in pushchairs, in baby carriers and at least one child still in its mother’s womb.

One thing that bonded the crowd together was the sense of value we placed on the Forest itself. Whether people were there for environmental or recreational reasons, none of us want a forest run as a public amenity to be sold into private ownership to be run for profit.

The price tag that was placed on Hamsterley was £2,000,000.00

That’s a lot of money to you or me, but how big a difference or me would that make in terms of the government’s budget and plugging a gap in the public finances. I decided to look into it and try and get a sense of context, to see what giving up ownership of that forest FOREVER would actually achieve for the government. Did they have a point? Ok, spending that amount would keep our troops in Afghanistan for 24 hours, one day. In the words of the TV game show, deal or no deal? No deal as far as I was concerned. That amount of money would allow us to be a member of the European Union for……. Wait for it…… this is the really shocking thing…… 1Hour. That’s right, giving up the forest forever, allows to be a member of the EU for around 60 minutes. For me, those figures alone tell me the amount of money raised from a sale of the forest would be so insignificant compared to the loss of amenity, it simply isn’t worth it.

We were also told be an official of PCS, that the Forestry Commission were planning to massively scale back their educational work within the forest, as well as closing the local Hamsterley office and running things from Pickering in Yorkshire. So much for the Government’s approach to localism?

In short, the forest, run as public amenity, operates two Sites of Special Scientific Interest, provides excellent, safe, facilities for walking, running, mountain biking as well as horse riding. The educational events can inspire children who may never have been outside an urban area and the work carried out by the staff working at the forest is self-evident by the neat and orderly facilities, as well as the well maintained tracks and paths.

The government do need to repair the public finances, but when it comes to raising funds, they need to look elsewhere.

Thanks to Teesdale Mercury for their Hands Off Hamsterley campaign. The fight goes on.

The childhood of a lighthouse keeper’s daughter was a tough introduction into the harsh realities of life and [...]]]> Grace Horsley Darling was born in her grandfather’s cottage in Bamburgh on November 24^th 1815. Whilst others were fighting the battle of Waterloo, the Darling family dedicated their lives to the safety of seafarers as lighthouse keepers.

Bamburgh Castle

The childhood of a lighthouse keeper’s daughter was a tough introduction into the harsh realities of life and forced children of both genders to become very resilient and self-reliant from a very early age.

Aged only threes weeks, Grace was moved from the cottage to Brownsman Island where she took up home in the small lighthouse keeper’s cottage, being raised and educated by her parents Thomasin and William. William, was an expert in maritime safety and knew the position of his current lighthouse on Brownsman Island was far from ideal. The family trait of determination really shone through him and after several years of campaigning he dream of a taller, more prominent lighthouse on Longstone Island became a reality and the family moved there.

In Grace Darling’s day, the North Sea was the motorway of its time, and traffic levels were substantially greater than those of today and ships passing the islands off the Northumbrian coast used a channel called the Fairway, between Inner Farne and the British mainland. Advances in ship design however, required masters to take their vessels further out to sea, though many came to ground on the rocks of the islands by not going out far enough. This was to be the fate of the SS Forfarshire, a luxurious 132 ft steamer owned by the Dundee and Hull Steam Packet Company.

Grace Darling Memorial at St Aidan's

However, the Forfarshire’s boiler started leaking on 6^th September 1838 which resulted in her engines failing, leaving the steamer drifting at the mercy of the prevailing tides. Realising the peril the ship and all aboard were facing, the Captain, John Humble, ordered the sails to be set in an attempt to get the ship to Inner Farne’s more sheltered waters. However, it is believed a simple navigation error meant Longstone Lighthouse was thought to be the Inner Farne Lighthouse. The fate of the vessel was sealed, when it ran aground on Big Harcar rock.

Grace was on duty at Longstone Lighthouse and believing the storm was too severe to allow the North Sunderland lifeboat to launch, decided to set out in the coble with her father to attempt a rescue of the survivors. Rowing for nearly a mile in very rough waters, Grace and her father found nine survivors when they arrived at the rock. However, to take all of the survivors in one trip would overload and endanger the coble. So Grace and her father took five of the survivors back on the first trip, before her father returned a second time to pickup the rest.

Grace Horsley Darling Tombstone

Reluctant to step into the limelight, Grace found herself a celebrity of the day, receiving an award of £50 from Queen Victoria herself, as well as a Gold Medal from the Royal Humane Society.

The RNLI Grace Darling Museum can be found on Radcliffe Road in the Bamburgh, Northumberland. Just over the road from the monument erected in her name in the graveyard of St Aidan’s Church.

There are several landmarks in the vilalge that are all used in the TV series. The Goathland Hotel becomes [...]]]> Nestling on the moors, a few miles south west of Whitby, the village of Goathland achieved world fame as the backdrop to the television series “Heartbeat”.

There are several landmarks in the vilalge that are all used in the TV series. The Goathland Hotel becomes the Aidensfield Arms, whilst you will find Blaketon’s Post Office just down from the village store.

Visiting on Christmas Sunday, the entire village was under a blanket of snow, making it even more picturesque than usual. I say blanket, in the village car park where you would normally find coach loads of tourists in the Summer months, there was a good 18″ of snow on the ground, which meant I needed to get some assistance to get back out.

However, that particular drama seemed easy to overcome having previously had a restorative cuppa in the Goathland Hotel, or to give it its TV name, the Aindensfield Arms.

The pub staff were excellent and quite happy to talk about the TV connection and even allowed photographs to be taken inside.

One of the best features, despite the faithful reproduction of the TV set, was the open fire which added an extra welcome on such a cold day.

So after a hot coffee, it was time to go walk about in the village.

Scripp’s garage and funeral service is just over the road from the Goathland Hotel, next door to the Inn on the Moor. Whilst there were a number of modern cars outside the garage, the 1960′s Heartbeat vehicles, including the recovery truck, were all under a thick layer of snow, though I did manage to make out the shape of a Morris Minor traveller near the forecourt.

A small village hall is further up the road on the same side as the garage. This appears to be the host of a number of event judging by the signs in the windows, however, a larger community venue exists at the other end of the village near the tearoom. That was featured as hosting a dance in at least one of the TV episodes.

The shops near the tearoom form the central focus of the village, as well as many of the storylines on the TV.

A post office and newsagent, as well as an outdoor store form the cluster of shops that serve locals and visitors alike.

In the summer months, Goathland is a bustling village with a vibrant atmosphere. The number of people there is swollen by tourists on the Heartbeat trail, but the small hotels and guest houses in the village also provide the ideal base to see the best of the North Yorkshire Moors. A short stroll to the eastern edge of the village takes you to Goathland railways station, one of the main stations on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. This is an absolute must for any steam train enthusiast and while you will find the Santa Specials running in December, it is also not unheard of for Harry Potter fans to ride on the Hogwarts Express.

Whether Summer or Winter, there is always a warm welcome for visitors in Goathland. So if you fancy a longer stay in the area, but don’t want the coastal experience offered by nearby Whitby, you could do a lot worse than making Goathland your base to travel from.

View Larger Map

Today I did something that fits that description. I went to the pub. Now that probably doesn’t sound like anything out of the ordinary to most people, but this was a pub with a difference. [...]]]> Every now and then, it is time to do something a little bit crazy, perhaps something you wouldn’t normally do.

Today I did something that fits that description. I went to the pub. Now that probably doesn’t sound like anything out of the ordinary to most people, but this was a pub with a difference. The pub I’m talking about is the highest in Britain. This is the world famous Tan Hill Inn.

At 1732ft above sea level, Tan Hill claims to be the highest altitude pub in Great Britain, yet that is not what makes this pub special.

This is a pub without customers. People who would be regarded as customers in other pubs, are regarded as friends at Tan Hill and more often than not, are treated like family. Conversations with complete strangers are the norm amongst people on the public side of the bar and the landlord and landlady ensure a friendly and efficient level of service is available to all.

The pub itself also has rooms available however advance booking is recommended.

However, if you do get the chance to stay, you will be free to sample a great range of ales, spirits and other beverages.

However, if you are walking the Pennine Way and turn up particularly cold and wet, room can always be made available in front of one of the warming open fires, which are also effective at drying boots and clothing. Or if you’re already warm enough when you arrive, make space for others in front of the fires and have a wander round and take a look at the numerous items that document the long and fascinating history of the inn.

You’ll find Tan Hill to be a unique experience. It’s certainly not your ordinary pub, priding itself on doing things a little differently. Oh and when you do visit, don’t forget to say hello to Socks, Shoes or Dizzy. Trust me, the staff will explain all, just ask.

It is a bustling town, always busy, whether with tourists travelling along the [...]]]> Hawes in North Yorkshire. A beauftiful little town lying slap on the A684 is home to Hawes Creamery, makers of the Wensleydale cheese made famous by Wallace & Grommit amongst others.

It is a bustling town, always busy, whether with tourists travelling along the dale or the local dalesfolk themselves, yet this town provides a wide selection of shops that many other towns would be jealous of. The civic administration has taken care to ensure the place doesn’t become too crowded by providing a large, and reasonably priced car par that sits on the southern side of the dale looking down on the main street. This makes getting into the town centre itself very easy and really is a shrewd move to attract outsiders in.

For the first time visitor, a trip to the famous creamery is almost compulsory. The real Yorkshire Wensleydale Cheese is just one of a range produced on site at the creamery, and visitors are welcome to take a tour of the plant to learn more about the history of the cheeses and the production processes involved. Of course at the end of the tour you can sample the goods in the cafe and purchase your favourite at the creamery shop.

However, Hawes is not a one trick pony, there are more places to see than the creamery.

Head east down the main street you will pass through the main shopping area. Whether you want country wear, high tech electrical appliances or antiques you will find at least one of each type of shop able to take care of your needs. If you’re feeling peckish, you can find a number of food outlets which can supply anything from a quick sandwich to a full blown meal and it is always nice to visit one of the pubs to have a meal and a pint.

At the eastern end of the town, you will find the craft fair dealing in the best of local arts and craft based products. Keep an eagle eye out and you can pick up a real bargain here, but the place that really fascinated me was the ropery. I had never been to a rope maker’s before. It’s not something you tend to think about day to day is it? Having visited here it gives you a different view on those rope barriers you see in posh hotels, the ropes you use when climbing, or even the humble dog lead. There can all start their life here.

Hawes

As you walk about the town, don’t forget to take in the buildings you pass. No two are the same and you can often guess their age by the discolouration of the stonework.

So whether you pause for a while to watch the water flow, or sit and watch the world go by whilst having a cup of tea or ice cream, it is always worth slowing down just a little to take in the atmosphere and observe every day life in the dales.

On 21st December 1988 the town hit the headlines world wide for all the wrong reasons. Pan Am Flight 103 had exploded [...]]]> Lockerbie in Scotland lies just off the A74(M) motorway in Dumfries & Galloway.

On 21st December 1988 the town hit the headlines world wide for all the wrong reasons. Pan Am Flight 103 had exploded in mid air due to a bomb hidden on board and the wreckage was scattered over the town. 270 people from 21 different countries lost their lives, including 11 on the ground. It was the worst air disaster of the decade.

For some time, the disaster defined the town. The name Lockerbie was synonymous with grief and despair, but if you visit the town today you will find it typical of any of its size in that area of Scotland.

Image via Wikipedia

The people have been moulded by the events of 1988. There is a friendliness and solidarity that is clear to any visitor that can only come from hard times and scratch below the surface and you may be surprised at what you find.

The best place to start is the Dryfesdale Lodge visitors’ centre. This is a former cemetery worker’s cottage, on the edge of town, which houses an exhibition of the history of Lockerbie from prehistoric times. The panels and displays give an excellent overview of the people and places and you can pick up a lot of information in a very short time. Whilst there is it worth taking a stroll through the cemetery to the Lockerbie Memorial Garden. This can be quite an emotional place. Sitting in the peaceful garden it is hard not to be moved reading the names etched on to the stones. What hits the most is the number of people with the same surname then the horror slowly dawns about whoever planted the bomb didn’t just kill hundreds of people, but wiped out whole families.

If you head out of town to the south, towards Dalton, you will find the remains of the Hallmuir Prisoner of War camp. The camp was home to up to 450 Ukranians who had volunteered to serve in the Waffen SS during World War 2. The Ukranian PoW’s built a chapel that still holds Ukranian services once a month.

It is the southerly one of the two great dales of County Durham that provides a rich culture. Whether you are looking for [...]]]> From Barnard Castle in in the East, to Garrigill in the west, Teesdale is one of the most unspoilt and beautiful areas in the North East of England.

Image via Wikipedia

It is the southerly one of the two great dales of County Durham that provides a rich culture. Whether you are looking for history in the collections of John & Josephine Bowes at the Bowes museum or prefer the calm isolation of Balderhead reservoir, or anything in between this dale really does have it all.

Balderhead Reservoir

Barnard Castle is a bustling market town. It always appears to be busy during shopping hours and this may due to the range on independently owned and run outlets that have survived, managing to stave off the onslaught from international brands. In doing so, Barnard Castle has retained its own identity and has not been homgenised like so many other market towns across the country.

The Market Cross forms a centre-piece which acts as a main roundabout, traffic filtering east to head for the museum or continuing down the hill, south towards the river and the A66.

Following the B6277 instead of the main A66 will take you through the village of Lartington, famed for its game fair, then on to Cotherstone. Cotherstone provided a home for Hannah Hauxwell who featured in a number of television programmes, when she finally gave up farming Low Birk Hatt Farm. Her traditional farming methods provided such a rich biodiverse meadowland that it has now been preserved as a site of special scientific interest.

Continuing westward you pass through the pleasant village of Romaldkirk and approach the hub of Middleton in Teesdale, where you can nip in to “Meet the Middletons” or simply have a cup of tea in one of the cafes and tearooms, watching the world go by.

Image via Wikipedia

Pushing on you will reach High Force. Stopping at the High Force Hotel car park, you can cross the road and walk down the path towards the river to reach the foot of the spectacular High Force waterfall, part of the Raby Estate. It is always best after a period of heavy rain, so visiting in the autumn or even winter is to be recommended to feel the full power of the water as it flows.

Continuing west, you will notice the grasslands change to moorland as your altitude increases.

The rolling hillside of the gently sloping dale is replaced by the scarred landscape of the crags near Holwick.

Teesdale near Holwick

Before finally ending up at the Langdon Beck Youth Hostel, which you can easily spot with its micro-generating turbine and solar panels on the roof. Whether you drive, cycle or walk the dale, you can be sure of a warm welcome from the locals. Just make sure you treat the area how you would like your own to be treated.

So for the computer fanatics amongst us [...]]]> There are many words an phrases in modern life that have their roots, deep in the past. In our article about Jack Crawford we told how if you are determined to succeed it is often said you “nail you colours to the mast”.

So for the computer fanatics amongst us this one is especially for you. Fonts, typefaces, styles all have their roots dating back to the birth of the printed word.

Everyone has their favourite font. For some it is the clean lines of Swiss or Arial, whilst others favour the pseudo handwritten style of Comic Sans.

Whatever your font preference, when it comes to computers, it will not be long before you start talking about capital and small letters as upper and lower case. However where exactly do those terms come from?

On a recent trip to Beamish Museum in County Durham this mystery was solved with a quick visit to the print shop where I got to discuss the matter with the master printer in residence.

If you look carefully at the picture at the top of the article, you will see two storage racks on the bench. An even closer inspection reveals that what is actually being stored is good old fashioned hot metal type. Pieces of metal, each shaped into the mirror image of an individual letter. These pieces of metal are placed together to form the mirror images of words can then be used to transfer the image on to the printed page.

Now each font style, size has its own little alcove in the rack, or to give its correct name “case”. To allow the master printer to quickly compose words on the setting stick, there was a place for everything, and everything had its place. The capital letters were placed in the rack furthest away from the edge of the bench, whilst the small letters were placed in the rack nearest the edge. So to direct a colleague to a capital letter, you would refer to the upper rack, or case. Hence the expression upper case. And the letters that weren’t capitals? They were stored in the “lower” case. Hence when referring to type on the computer, we talk about upper and lower case. Who’d have thought, eh?

Ok so that is a little over dramatic. RAF Fylingdales is situated in the North Yorkshire moors and it is kind of an open secret about what the base there does.

The photograph above reminded as a child of [...]]]> Ssh! Come here. I need to tell you this quietly.

Ok so that is a little over dramatic. RAF Fylingdales is situated in the North Yorkshire moors and it is kind of an open secret about what the base there does.

The photograph above reminded as a child of the HQ of some evil monster on Dr Who, but a quick scout around for details tells me it’s really a Solid State Phased Array Radar, whatever that is. However, the tetrahedral structure does dominate the local sky line in more ways that one. It seems as out of place as it could be. A huge concrete structure towering above the beautiful natural landscape, yet this base has been present since the early 1960′s, but the building you see in the picture was an addition of the late 1980′s. This structure replaced the domed radar system, christened “golf balls” by the public due to their shining white nature.

It has been the scene of many a protest over the years, due to the base’s role in the cold war and missile defence for the USA.

If you want to take a look for yourself, leave Whitby (Yorkshire) heading south along the A171 and you really can’t miss it. It’s a highly unusual sight but don’t get too close to the base or you may just attract the attention of those spooks.

The official RAF website for the base is here.

The local Yorkshire CND site is here.

mention Shildon in County Durham or the Mason’s Arms pub.

However, few will mention Aycliffe Station. It is a place you wont find [...]]]> Ask any railway enthusiast where the birthplace of the passenger railway is and many will mention Stephenson, the Stockton & Darlington Railway. Some may even

mention Shildon in County Durham or the Mason’s Arms pub.

However, few will mention Aycliffe Station. It is a place you wont find on any map today as it has been renamed Heighington Lane Station, yet this little kn0wn place played a pivotal role in the formation of the modern passenger railway. For it was here, where Locomotion No. 1 was first placed on to the rails having been brought south to the area from the workshop where it was built on Tyneside. It then headed to Shildon for that first journey from the outside the Mason’s Arms, which is still in existence today, towards Darlington and then on to Stockton. Much to the delight of the huge crowd that had gathered to watch.

Wandering round today’s station, there are few clues to be seen of what happened here all those years ago. In fact the station looks much like any to be found on a branch line of the railway network. However, there is a strong hint in the form of the converted station buildings. The Locomotion No. 1 public house.

With walls adorned with all manner of memorabilia, Locomotion No. 1 (the pub) is one of those fascinating buildings in its own right. The owners have ensured that the building has avoided going down the route of large open plan rooms. You’ll find all sorts of side rooms, nooks and crannies, where quiet conversation can be enjoyed over a pint or bar meal. For lovers of quality beers and ales, you will find a well stocked bar, with staff on hand to give a detailed description of each where the name is not readily familiar.

Also, in contrast to the history of the building, you will also find free wifi available.

The pub itself provides a range of music on Saturday nights and you will find the food here very reasonably priced, as well as delivered quickly to your table.

Ample parking is available to the rear of the building, in fact, it has been known for music festivals to be held during the summer months in the past. So whilst the pub itself is a little out of the way on the southern side of an industrial park, once there, it is very easy to get parked and get in.

Whether you fancy a bite to eat, a quick pint or two, or simply to buff up your railway history knowledge, it’s not hard to glance out of the window and visualise the Locomotion No. 1 going by back in the 1820′s.

As a small market town it can get very busy during the height of the tourist season, but visiting early one Saturday morning in September I had no problem getting parked in [...]]]> Helmsley, is a market town that nestles on the southern edge of the North Yorkshire Moors.

As a small market town it can get very busy during the height of the tourist season, but visiting early one Saturday morning in September I had no problem getting parked in either the market place, or the nearby longer stay car park.

Probably the thing I like most about Helmsley is the fact it appears to be a town that globalisation forgot. Taking a look around the main shopping area is an absolutely pleasure because of the sheer excitement. If you are looking for major chain brands forget it. Try another town. I literally lost count of the shops enetitled XXXXXXX of Helmsley. (Subsitute any name you like for the XXXXX’s) This takes you back in time when it comes to shopping. Each time you pass through a door you don’t know the layout of the shop you will find and the staff are genuinely keen to talk to you. Why? They each have a vested interest in the success of their place of employment. It is also probably one of the few towns where you will find a well stocked, independent bookshop as well.

Helmsley Castle, is operated and managed by English Heritage. It’s literally a couple of minutes walk from the market place before you reach this ruined castle from the 12th Century. It is impressive enough to dominate the skyline of the area without overpowering all the other picturesque buildings in the town.

If you are lucky, you will hear the church bells peeling during your visit.Wherever you are in the town, you will be able to hear when they start, however, the volume is not sufficient to drown out conversation. It provides a pleasant musical backdrop that adds something to the experience.

Moving back to the market place, the central feature is a statue raised by tennants, in honour of the second Lord Feversham. Works like this, paid for by public subscription remain rare and this shows the level of affection and respect the 2nd Lord enjoyed from those on the estate.

It would be interesting to see the 2nd Lord’s reaction to such a mighty statue in his name, watching over those in the centre of the town.

Having had a good look around the town centre I started to make may way back to the Cleveland Way car park, heading towards the rear of the castle.

Memorial to 2nd Baron Feversham, Helmsley Market Place

The reason for me heading to the rear of castle, wasn’t to visit the walled garden that was nearby, but to call in on Keith Pickering, simply known as The Stick Man. This isn’t a comment on the man’s physique, but rather about his product line. Keith, is a mater craftsman producing all styles of walking sticks. From custom made, horn carved shepherd’s crooks, to silver topped canes, to the ever popular thumstick, he produces them all in his workshop in the craft units next to the walled garden. His work has featured on television, in Emmerdale and Heartbeat, and the stick used by actress Emma Thompson in the film Nanny McPhee was a custom made creation of his as well. (If you’re interested in how this stick came to life, take a look at the article here.) It was a privilege to watch this craftsman working with living material and wandering in, without a clear idea of what I was looking for, I received the expert advice I was looking for. As a result, I walked away with a made to measure stick that will give me years of service whilst I’m out walking and photographing.

Whilst in the area, it seemed daft not to drive by Rievaulx Abbey, that is a story for another time.

Yet, scratch below the surface and you will find this town is better connected than you may think.

At the end of the A830, dubbed The Road to the Isles, Mallaig is [...]]]>

Mallaig Bay

On the west coast of Scotland, the small town of Mallaig nestles against the mainland hills with stunning views of the islands nearby.

Yet, scratch below the surface and you will find this town is better connected than you may think.

At the end of the A830, dubbed The Road to the Isles, Mallaig is to the sea, what Clapham Junction is to the railways.

So whether you want to head off to Coll, Skye, Eigg or Uist, you will be able to hop on to a ferry leaving from the port.

However, if you have your sights set on a more global connection, you will find there are a number of free internet hotspots scattered around the town that can easily be picked up on your mobile phone. Ideal for sending that vital email if you have been out of service en route.

The town itself revolves around the sea.

Fish processing is the big industry in the town, taking the catch direct from the quayside. Unusually walk into the local fishmongers and you can select the fish of your choice to be posted home, or to friends or relatives for a minimal charge.

Mallaig Bay from the hills

Like many coastal towns of west Scotland, there are spectacular views to be had, even when there is a heavy mist. The islands that are visible emerge from the haze like grey mirages providing a spooky, yet rewarding view.

Oh and be prepared. The people around the town are very friendly. Don’t be surprised if somebody walks straight off a fishing boat and strikes up a conversation with you like they have known you for years.

Whatever the weather is up to, the welcome is always warm in Mallaig.

They have been involved in every major conflict the UK has fought since their formation during world war two when Winston Churchill wanted an elite force to raid enemy occupied coastal positions.

As a result of being [...]]]> They’re not soldiers, They’re not sailors. They’re not airmen. They are the Commandos.

They have been involved in every major conflict the UK has fought since their formation during world war two when Winston Churchill wanted an elite force to raid enemy occupied coastal positions.

As a result of being on the front lines of action after action they have won a huge number of medals and paid a higher price than many other units.

North of Spean Bridge, just off the A82 is where you will find the Commando Memorial.

It is a fitting place to remember the fallen. The views from the memorial where the figures stare out are the types of terrain where Commando’s train and feel most at home.

Away from the statue, a garden of remembrance has been established where people can honour the memory of loved ones lost. It’s an emotional place, even just to walk round. Photographs, pictures, plaques and notes line the circular route around the garden.

It is easy to think of this as a place where old men from “the war” fade away, however, it is a sad fact that this garden of remembrance is very much an evolving place, with new names appearing.

It was saddening to see new names being added, with birthdates from the 1980′s being added to the list of those fallen.

They may be gone, but they will never be forgotten. The best of the best. The men entitled to call themselves a Commando.

Ards House in Connel is more than a home from home. It’s a luxury retreat where you start even the shortest visit as a friend and [...]]]> Looking for a home from home within spitting distance of Oban? Well we’ve found somewhere for you that can go one better than that.

Ards House, Connel

Ards House in Connel is more than a home from home. It’s a luxury retreat where you start even the shortest visit as a friend and leave as one of the family.

When we visited we were met by our host Margaret who took no time at all to show us to our room and find out about our plans for our stay in the area. Offering expert local knowledge she clearly had her finger on the pulse of the local area and attractions and even provided traffic & travel advice that allowed us to make a morning ferry free from hassle. Whether you want to know which restaurants have the best seafood, or the cheapest long term parking in town just ask.

The key phrase that describes a stay at Ards House, “free from hassle”. Everything you could want is there, or arranged quickly. From the moment we parked in the exclusive Ards House car park, to reaching our room, everything “felt” right and that is important. Our host was clearly very experienced and delivered an effortless “meet and greet” that imparted knowledge ranging from accessing the free in-house wifi broadband, the extensive library of books (both fiction and non-fiction), recommended tourist information and ensured we were relaxed in the guest only drawing room. All of this over a complimentary glass of wine which ensured proprietor and guests were chatting like old friends within minutes.

View from Ards House at sunset

The standard of decoration throughout the house was excellent with works of art adorning the walls in all the rooms. The large flat screen TV in the room was outdone by the even larger TV in the drawing room. This ensured if guests could not agree which programme to watch communally, a very acceptable alternative awaited their exclusive viewing.

We took no interior photographs. This is a matter of policy as to photograph inside private property, we would need the proprietor’s permission which could skew our experience. To see some internal views, visit the Ards House website.

Also, being gadget freaks here at Off The Beaten Track, it was heartening to see an iPhone dock on one of the bedroom side tables. Allowing guests to play the familiar music of their choice also adds to that sense of comfort and familiarity. A subtle, but effective attention to detail.

The bathroom was of a modern, contemporary design and was so clean it sparkled, almost convincing you that you were the first person to enter the room, allowing for a long relaxing soak or a quick invigorating shower.

When morning arrives, the breakfast you ordered the night before is delivered quickly and to your satisfaction. Satisfaction our host clearly worked hard to ensure was achieved.

Whether you are writing a book, want a quiet read, or are using Connel as a base to tour from like we were, Ards House provides a luxury home away from home with amazing views and a fantastic host whose eye for detail brings the whole experience together. The best evaluation we can give is to say we will definitely be going back. If you are staying in the area, make this place number one on your places to stay.

Even after your two ferry trips (Oban to Mull, then Mull to Iona) the island has a strange calming effect, even to the casual visitor. It is unexplainable, hard to define, but it is definitely [...]]]> As soon as you land on the island of Iona you feel a certain tranquility.

Iona from the ferry

Even after your two ferry trips (Oban to Mull, then Mull to Iona) the island has a strange calming effect, even to the casual visitor. It is unexplainable, hard to define, but it is definitely there.

As the crowds leaving the ferry disperse, it is a beautiful walk along the the main road, if indeed you can call the single track a main road towards the abbey, past the ruins of the old convent.

Before reaching the main gate of the abbey you will come across the church. The ancient tombstones in the graveyard all tell there own tails and looking out across the waters it is hard to imagine a better resting place. In deed, the former leader of the UK Labour Party, John Smith, was buried in the graveyard here.

Iona gardens and bay

The residents of the island take a great pride in their gardens and we passed many labelled up as organic throughout our time on the island.

There are a number of restaurants that cater to the demands of tourists straight off the ferry, but if you are looking for something a little less frenetic, without compromising on quality, the Argyl Hotel on the front, just passed the Post Office, will provide for the most discerning pallet.

Whilst we only had a very short time on the island, which was a shame, it was clear from wandering around the abbey and narrow streets that this place deserved more time to allow its full exploration.

My tip for this place, slow down. Take time to wander the abbey, visit the heritage centre and look round the gardens. Savour the atmosphere and try and get a real insight into life on the island.

It is one for the list to return to, perhaps during winter to see the contrast the different seasons can bring.

From the moment I landed at Craignure from the ferry from Oban you could just feel it in the air. Life is a little slower. The island only has one crossroads. The biggest cause of road traffic accidents are deer straying on to the roads at night. [...]]]> There’s something special about the Isle of Mull.

Isle of Mull

From the moment I landed at Craignure from the ferry from Oban you could just feel it in the air. Life is a little slower. The island only has one crossroads. The biggest cause of road traffic accidents are deer straying on to the roads at night. The sense of community is strong.

It was the first place I ever experienced a single track road, with passing places, being described as an A Class road, though the local drivers are very considerate when it comes to manners on the road, as well as putting up with tourists who are not clued up, in the ways of island driving.

The scenery is spectacular. From the lowlands of the coast to the mountains flanking the glen, there is something to suit everyone here. In fact, there is only one thing that will outclass the amazing views available to anyone venturing on to the island. In a word, wildlife. The range of creatures to be seen, even by a casual observer is vast. Sea eagles, golden eagles, majestic stags, buzzards, seals, the list goes on and on. However, if you do go across the island you stand a very good chance of seeing all of these species and more.

Duart Castle

If the wildlife is not enough, you could also visit one of the castles on the island. Duart Castle, seat of the Maclean clan which stands proudly above the Sound of Mull. In fact Maclean involvement with Duart Castle can be traced back to 1367 when it was offered as the dowry when Mary MacDonald married the 5th Clan Chief.

Organised bus tours run from the ferry terminal at Craignure and it is best to ensure you have your ticket booked prior to landing on the island. They can whisk you across the island, through the glen, to Fionnphort on the west coast. This is the jump-off point on the ferry to cross the water to the neighbouring island of Iona. The drive takes about an hour and our driver provided an entertaining and informative commentary of the journey as we went.

When visiting the island, you should budget to allocate at least a whole day of your journey, particularly if you want to jump on the Calmac ferry to Iona. Ideally, you will want to spend more time there to get the full island experience. However, be warned, in peak season every Bed & Breakfast we passed had the “No Vacancies” signs displayed so make sure you have somewhere to stay organised. Traveling “on spec” may result in you having to sleep rough.

Great wildlife, castles and people, all steeped in history make Mull somewhere you will want to return to time and again.

It is a special time at Beamish this year because the site celebrates it’s 40th Birhday.

Beamish grew up, at the same time I did [...]]]> Beamish is, quite simply unique. It is not a theme park. It is more than a museum. Oh and whatever you do, don’t tell the kids it’s educational as well.

View from the pit head

It is a special time at Beamish this year because the site celebrates it’s 40th Birhday.

Beamish grew up, at the same time I did and I have been able to watch the site grow over the years into the premier tourist attraction in the county of Durham, if not the region.

There are two main time zones on the site. The town is based around the 1913 era and Pockerly Old Hall and Wagonway recreate the early 1800′s.

Now I should explain, if you are from outside of the North East of England and plan to visit Beamish, allocate the whole day to your visit. If you spend any less time there you will miss so much of the site. If you live in the region, you can get an annual pass that will allow you to visit the site as many times as you like throughout the year. Great value for money since the annual pass costs (at the time of my last visit) the same as the standard day entry.

Armstrong Whitworth

From the instant you cross the threshold, you are transported back in time. After passing through the reception area the first thing you will see is the tram stop. This is merely one stop on the circular track around the site where you can hop on and off the various trams that provide a frequent service. There is nothing better than sitting on the upper deck of an open topped tram to give a great view of the whole site.

However, if you time it right, you will be met by a chauffeur driving the specially built replica of an Armstrong Whitworth motor car. Driving past those walking to the town, those getting the tram or bus, it’s very hard to resist doing a royal wave as you pass them in style. Sadly traveling from the entrance, passed Pockerly Old Hall to the town was all too quick and we were dropped off by our driver just outside the garage in the town where the original Armstrong Whitworth car is housed.

The Print Shop

There is always plenty of things going on in the town. Whether you visit the Bank, the sweet shop (where you can see the sweets being made), the drapers, co-op, pub or even Masonic Hall. A short walk along the terrace will also take you into the dentist’s, the music teacher’s house or soliticor’s office.

It is also home to the tearoom that supplies a range of food from simple tea and scones to full meals.

A case of type

However, my personal favourite is The Print Shop. There is something special about the mechanics of it all with cogs and levers and counter balances, as well as the sounds of the presses as they operate. It is also the place to ask questions of the master printers. For example do you know where the saying “to come a cropper” originates? Or perhaps you often “get the wrong end of the stick” but never thought where that phrase came from? For the more modern minded, you may want to know why THIS IS CALLED UPPER CASE, whilst this is called lower case, when typing on a computer. This is place to ask and all will be revealed.

Moving on from The Print Shop, it was time to visit the park. It was the ideal time of year as the floral displays were amazing, particularly around the bandstand that forms the central feature.

Bandstand in the park

This is an ideal place to take a rug and have a picnic.

Whilst there was no band playing on the day of the visit it has been known for a range of music to accompany the sandwiches. Even on the busiest of days it is possible to get a spot within easy view of the bandstand.

Moving on from the park it was time to visit the railway station. Painstakingly rebuilt brick by brick, like most of the buildings at Beamish, regular trips are available on the steam train as it passes up and down the line.

From the railway station I moved on to the farm where the highlight had to be the huge shire horses. I really had forgotten how big these magnificent beasts were. The previous visit to the site, I had spotted one in a field driving a plough.

Then all too quickly it was time to go. I hadn’t visited the Colliery Village, the drift mine, the chapel, school or Pockerly Old Hall and wagonway. However, I do have an annual pass so perhaps they will be the first stops on my next visit when I add to my Flickr Set.

Beamish Museum really does allow time travel to come to County Durham.

Gregorio Antonio Thomaso Trillo (Neil told us he was known to the locals as Charlie who couldn’t quite master the long name) arrived in England from Italy in 1912 and quickly set about [...]]]>

Picture (c) David McElhone

Visit Whitby in Yorkshire and it wont be long before you come across the name Trillo, but who are the Trillo family?

Gregorio Antonio Thomaso Trillo

Gregorio Antonio Thomaso Trillo (Neil told us he was known to the locals as Charlie who couldn’t quite master the long name) arrived in England from Italy in 1912 and quickly set about address the problems he saw with the iced deserts at available at the time. When war broke out in 1914, Trillo suspended his commercial activities and went down the mines to help with the war effort of his new country.

However, war passed and thank goodness it did otherwise we would not have Trillo of Whitby ice cream. Perched high on the top of the east cliff, just near St Mary’s Church we encountered the third generation of ice cream vendor in the town, Neil Trillo. Having climbed the 199 steps to the church, an ice cream seemed a good idea and faced with Trillo, a local manufacturer, or another vendor, we stayed local.

On aproaching the van the challenge was laid down. “Can you beat wild cherry ice cream, served at the parlour in Reeth?” It was a straightforward fight between two Yorkshiremen. “No problem was the response. I’ve got a gothic Blackcurrent & Liquorice and you can have it topped with Dracula blood if you like.”

Our photographer was keen to take up the challenge and one rather strange purple coloured cone duly arrived. David, who is a bit of an authority when it comes to these things, gave the taste sensation his seal of approval, whilst the rest of our party opted for the more traditional flavours. Now it may have been the top quality ice cream, it may have been the 199 steps up to the church that made it taste so good. To really find out you will have to pay a visit yourself and sample a cone from the van at the top of the world.

However, if ice cream is not your thing, the Trillo’s have got that covered as well.

Up the hill to St Mary's Church

Head over the other side of the quay by the bandstand. Half way up the hill you’ll find an excellent coffee outlet. Now forget the blandness of the big global franchises. Your nose will guide you in the right direction.

Staffed by friendly locals, who will happily give you directions as well, “Full of Beans” is a small wooden building perched half way up the hill. Ideally placed to provide that pick-me-up whether you are heading up the hill to the top of the cliff, or down to the sea and just wanting a drink to quaff whilst watching the world go by.

The ten minute chat we had with Neil near St Mary’s church seemed to sum up the family’s approach to business; Relaxed, knowing they provide reasonably priced, quality products. The conversation, whether about local history, the family or Neil’s acting exploits are merely part of the transaction to get you refreshed, so you can make the most of your trip to the coast.

Full of Beans

The weather was just about perfect for walking, warm but not too hot, although we did consume a fair amount of liquids throughout the walk.

I spent an excellent day with friends in Hadrian‘s Wall country, in Northumberland yesterday.

The weather was just about perfect for walking, warm but not too hot, although we did consume a fair amount of liquids throughout the walk.

We started off at Housesteads Roman Fort. Now the others didn’t spot it at first but read what was on the sign above. Any idea what a Pay & Display toilet is all about? No I didn’t either.

It’s a fairly long walk from the car parking area up the hill to the fort itself, however, a lot of work has been done to ensure the paths are even enough to push a buggy on, though there is plenty of safe open space for children to run around on the way up the hill.

Reaching the top of the hill, your first port of call is the museum area. It’s not that big but has some useful information in the displays that give you an overview of the fort its background, how it came to be found by archaeologists gone by etc. The museum is also where you pay your entrance fee.

Money saving tip: If you’re a member of the National Trust, entry is free!

Much of the site is covered by the exposed ruins, however in one or two places there are some quite steep drops so make sure you keep a close eye on the children. Also, don’t be tempted to rush your visit. There are plenty of things to see and discover if you look for them and the signage around the fort will give you a good insight into how these people lived. Of course some will go the extra mile to get that insight.

Having spent some time at Housesteads learning all things Roman, we moved on to Steel Rigg.

I had never heard of this place, but was reliably informed it was well worth a visit and the view from the car park was pretty impressive to say the least.

Our route was to take us along the top of the cliff, past the lake in the distance and heading east along the wall, back towards Sycamore Gap.

Of course nothing in this life is free and to get these stunning views we had to pay with blood, sweat and tears. Ok I exaggerate little there but certainly plenty of one out of the three with plenty of huffing and puffing too. Though one of the group did earn the name Cragg-hopper as she skipped up the hill.

Our ultimate goal on this part of the walk was to reach an area on the wall known simply as Sycamore Gap.

It’s a gap in the landscape with, erm……. ok no prizes for guessing a Sycamore Tree.

Now that doesn’t particularly sound impressive does it, until you actually see it. Oh, and if you are thinking it looks a little familiar, but you just cannot quite place the memory. Well perhaps you should take another look at Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves and all will become apparent. A group of Australians we bumped into at the gap were not quite convinced after they were told, but one of the party managed to persuade the others they were not being subjected to some tourist trap trick.

Chillingham castle was built in the 12 century, and as our guide informed us, originally it had a round tower but this was subsequently replaced by the square design you see today. The castle [...]]]> Last night I went with a group of friends on the Chillingham Castle Ghost Tour.

Chillingham castle was built in the 12 century, and as our guide informed us, originally it had a round tower but this was subsequently replaced by the square design you see today. The castle itself became fully fortified in 1344 which was necessary as it was after all, on the front line of the ongoing skirmishes and battles between the English and Scots.

The tour officially started at 8pm by our group, along with three others, were champing at the bit to get going and we left the central courtyard of the castle to start our tour just after a quarter to. Our guide warned us that when we heard the castle clock strike six, it was actually eight o’clock. (Just one of those oddities of Chillingham)

The first thing we were told was this was a ghost tour, not a ghost hunt, and not to expect to encounter anything para-normal, though if anything did, it would be a bonus. I think the guide was setting expectations here upfront in true Northumbrian style. So off we went on the tour.

Rather than entering the castle we were taken back outside, along one of the high walls towards the woods to the “Monks’ Walk”. This was a route used, as you may have guessed, by monks, walking to and from their church. However, the monks were barely tolerated by the locals, so in order to stay out of sight, they walked through the woods instead of along a track. Nothing too contentious there you may think.

Woods can be scary at night. This one in particular has a history. As it is on the north side of the castle, prisoners from the battles in the area, local criminals, or general miscreants would be hung from these trees by their wrists or ankles and left to die of dehydration. This was because it trouble was coming, it was always be those Scots from the North.

Often they would last three or fours days, hanging naked with no clothes on. Our guide informed us at the time, the monks found this to be offensive. Not the hanging, nobody would dare cut anyone down, but the vitcims’ lack of clothing. So the monks would use squares of unrefined black and white wool to protect the modesty of victims.

Around this tree, people have reported to hear the sounds of children laughing and playing. Quite surprising given what would have been hanging all around them at the time. However these were hard times indeed. Parents would send their children to retrieve the squares of black and white wool from the corpses to use for their own clothing and children being children, they would make a game of it to distract themselves from the horrors all around.

Whilst the Yew trees made great hanging trees due to their large numbers of limbs, they were difficult for adults to climb but presented little challenge to children who could easily squeeze through the small gaps. They also provided a source of wood to produce the classic English Long Bow. A very effective weapon of its day.

Having followed “The Monks’ Walk” to the driveway, we turned back up the hill to the castle to start the interior tour.

On reaching the courtyard, our guide gave us a brief history of the castle, it’s structure and how it was built, before we started the climb up the south western tower to the King Edward I room.

Built specifically to accommodate King Edward I, this room was used frequently in his absence by a very disturbing character by the name of John Sage.

Sage had been sent to the castle by the king, with two demands. He was to be acommodated in the King’s quarters when it was not in use by His Majesty or other nobles, and was also be found gainful employment at the castle. Sage was wounded by a spear to the leg and result of his torturing activities inflicting pain and suffering on up to fifty people a week, as well as his distinctive walk, earned him the nickname of Dragfoot. This presented a quandry for the castle, what role could be given to this dashing, yet disabled man?

Sage, himself picked the role of “meeter and greeter” of prisoners at the castle which meant in reality, he was the torturer.

Sage was suspected in the killing of at least two children in this room and would often lock himself away in there for days on end getting up to who knows what with the women of his choice.

Whilst on our tour a gauntlet fell off a suite of armour which was in the corner of the room. Was that Sage giving us a warning sign or did someone on the tour get too close and knock it off. We’ll never know.

Our next stop was the Great Hall.

This was the main dining area of the castle and a great long table was set out along virtually the entire length of the room.

Now I took the picture to the left generally zapping around the room when the group had started to leave and noticed a blue anomaly at the far end of the room on the camera screen.

However, this turned out to be the gas bottle shown in the insert rather than anything to do with the ghost of Lady Mary Berkeley who is said to walk this room on the far side of the table away from the fireplace.

The guide explained how he personally had an experience in the Great Hall with one of the heavy candlesticks falling over and rolling off the table on to the floor.

He had also smelt the rose petal perfume of Mary Berkeley on a number of occasions.

Watching him deliver his talk in here, it was interesting to note that he stayed on the fireplace side of the table at all times. Entering the room, delivering his speech, then leaving the room. Always on the fireplace side, away from the route Mary Berkeley was said to walk.

As we left the Great Hall, the group were asked to put the candles out as we went. One lady, so engrossed in the speech replied, almost involuntarily, “No Chance”. Much to the amusement of the rest of us.

The next room we were to visit was the castle chapel.

Haunted by the ghost of a young girl called Eleanor who died in the chapel, it was in this room that poltergeist activity got a mention. Rattling of the elements of the lanterns, as well as extreme cold spots had been reported by nothing occurred during our visit. We were all asked to turn our torches off and the darkness in this room was amazing. You literally could not see your hand in front of your face at all.

We moved on through the minstrels’ gallery and down into what is now used as a tearoom during the day.

For me, one of the most best sights of the tour, was the huge Irish Elk antlers on the wall. The picture cannot truly convey the shear scale of these things and the must have been about twenty feet in width. All supported by a relatively small head.

These antlers were recovered from a bog which had preserved them amazingly well and they formed an impressive centrepiece.

Now it was in this room where things started to get a little weird.

Several of us heard knocking and banging from the direction of the minstrels’ gallery whilst the guide carried on delivering his talk. Other members of the group on the tour, reported similar noises from completely the opposite direction.

Also, Julie took a photograph of the corner diagonally opposite where we entered the room and got an anomaly. I took a picture with a different camera completely and was surprised to get something similar.

I’ve no idea what it is, why it should appear on two different pictures, from two different cameras. I think all we can say if we can rule out any camera fault.

Again, on leaving this room, I made sure I was one of the last to leave in order to take pictures. However, as the group had moved away and there were only three of us from my group left in the room, the noises from the direction of the minstrels’ gallery happened once again.

Nobody commented on them at the time and I just assumed that the tour was being followed round at a discrete distance by the estate manager, locking up the rooms behind us as we went along the route.

My suspicions this was happening were further strengthened once I had taken this picture.

Just after I took this shot. Clear as a bell I heard a cough. It has to be someone locking up behind us. Yet talking to the estate manager on the way out, at the end of the tour, he told us that nothing had been locked up and he still had to do that. Even after some pressing questions he maintained he had to see us down the steps and to our cars and then lock up. So I cannot explain the noises or the cough, but I know I heard both.

The tour continued into a room showing the types of torture equipment that John Sage would have used in his day and crossing the courtyard once again, we ended the tour in a room where you could take a peek into the dungeon of the castle down the oubliette.

Stepping back out into the courtyard, I took some final pictures in the dark.

There are a few things going on in this picture however it was raining at the time so the flash picked up raindrops rather than anything else. At least that is what I thought at first. On looking at the full size picture in Photoshop, some of the anomalies were blurred, except the blurring was at the bottom rather than the top. Why is this significant? As the rain falls to the ground you expect to see the blurring on the top, forming a little tail a bit like a comet. If the blurring is on the bottom, whatever it is, must have been traveling upwards. Rain doesn’t go up. Does it?

It just one of the many mysteries of Chillingham. Like Royston Vasey, you may never leave.

Chillingham

Today the only way to reach Dunstanburgh Castle is on foot along the exposed Northumberland [...]]]> Standing dramatically on the cliff tops between Craster and Embleton in Northumberland is Dunstanburgh Castle. The Castle is now largely ruinous although it rated at one time among the largest and grandest castles in the North of England.

Today the only way to reach Dunstanburgh Castle is on foot along the exposed Northumberland coastline. We started out at Craster, home of the famous Robson and Son smoke house. The weather was overcast and windy, with the tide edging in as we walked, leading to some stunning waves breaking against the rocky coastline.
The route along the coast is littered with wildlife from various cattle to the Spot Eider Duck (known locally as Cuddy’s Duck after St. Cuthbert) and I won’t lie, lots of cow pats!

The castle itself, on which building commenced in 1313 by The Earl of Lancaster, sits alone, fringed on two sides by the North Sea, looking bleak and imposing. A great deal of the castle sits in ruin but it is still possible to climb (some very steep stairs) to the top of one of the towers. Once at the top it offers imposing views out across the North Sea, back to Craster and in the distance Bamburgh Castle.

As you walk the perimeter of the grounds you are rewarded with more magnificent views down into Gull Crag, whose 30 metre high cliffs provided ideal defences for the castle, and Queen Margaret’s Cove, where the waves crash in and over where the medieval builders placed the latrines!

Although it is in a ruinous state Dunstanburgh remains steeped in history and for all of its bleakness it is a stunning, peaceful reward at the end (or the middle) of your walk.

On the National Trust website, Wallington is described as “Magnificent mansion with fine interiors and collections, set in an extensive garden and parkland”. It is an accurate description of what was once the home of the Trevelyan family, in Border Reiver country.

As you approach the estate,one of the first [...]]]>

On the National Trust website, Wallington is described as “Magnificent mansion with fine interiors and collections, set in an extensive garden and parkland”. It is an accurate description of what was once the home of the Trevelyan family, in Border Reiver country.

As you approach the estate,one of the first sights to greet you are the Griffins on the east lawn.

However, these stone heads do not mark the entrance to the site, you will have to continue a few hundred yards to the north to find the car park and entrance. The estate now owned and managed by the National Trust, is at the centre of a number of working farms which supply produce the farm shop at the southern end of the car park.

Having paid your entrance fee, or shown your National Trust membership card, you enter the Courtyard by walking through the archway under the clock. The Courtyard is a mis-leading description for this area of the estate as there is a large grassed, well tendered lawn to cross or walk round before reaching the big house itself. This area provides an ideal space for a picnic if the weather is nice, whilst other took the opportunity to kick a ball around during our visit.

Formal stable blocks house displays showing the history of the estate, some carriages, as well as the obligatory gift shop, tea room and restaurant. During the visit I stopped for a cup of tea and a scone, very reasonably priced and served quickly with a smile.

The house itself did not open until 1pm, so that provided ample time to take a look around the extensive grounds and woodland areas. One of the highlights was the walled garden, whose formal displays were clearly the result of many hours work by skilled gardeners. However, all this work was upstaged by mother nature herself, when a dragonfly made an appearance at the pond.

This rare sight drew cameras from bags and pockets from everyone in the area.

After the walled garden came a long walk in the extensive grounds of Wallington, though be warned, make sure you are wearing appropriate footwear. Thick soled shoes or boots are best as the paths vary in quality. That said virtually all sections are accessible to those who use wheelchairs.

Overall, you should allow yourself a good four hours to get the most out of your visit which includes the interior of the house itself. Contrary to the plaintive cries of one young man who said “What are we doing in here, it’s all just old stuff?” there is plenty to see and do.

Acquired by The National Trust in 1983 Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal are part of a huge site just outside of Ripon. Fountains Abbey was established in 1132 by 13, French, Benedictine monks who left their order due to their outrage at the way their order was being broken. The monks originally travelled to [...]]]>  

Acquired by The National Trust in 1983 Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal are part of a huge site just outside of Ripon. Fountains Abbey was established in 1132 by 13, French, Benedictine monks who left their order due to their outrage at the way their order was being broken. The monks originally travelled to York but were given the land on which Fountains Abbey now stands.

We spent much of the morning on a guided tour of the abbey with our most informative National Trust guide, John. All the while trying to avoid a large group of school children who were being taken on a tour, dressed as monks, by guides who were also dressed for and acting the part, complete with bell ringing, fighting and singing in the abbey!
Lunch was eaten in the grounds of the abbey which is incredibly tranquil.

After lunch we moved on to walk along the banks of the River Skell to the Studley Royal Water Gardens. Studley Royal was inherited by John Aislabie in 1693. He became the first Tory MP for Ripon in 1695 and 1718 became Chancellor of the Exchequer. The water gardens were influenced by the work of French gardeners but the design in entirely original.
Also in the gardens are several temples. These include The Temple of Fame and The Temple of Piety (which became known by us as the temple of pie eating – sorry).

You can also wander the cascades, formal canals and various bridges.

Our walk back to the visitors centre was via the deer park (not a deer in sight!) and St Marys Church, with a quick stop for a clotted cream tea at Lakeside.
All in all we spent a very pleasant day at Fountains. If you do go for a visit then I would highly recommend joining one of the guided tours, be it of the abbey or Studley Royal. Take a picnic and just enjoy.

A quick visit to the gift shop on the edge of the village green will equip you with a very reasonably priced leaflet showing three circular walks in [...]]]> Reeth is probably one of the most picturesque villages in North Yorkshire. It has the ideal layout with life revolving around quite a large village green.

A quick visit to the gift shop on the edge of the village green will equip you with a very reasonably priced leaflet showing three circular walks in the countryside around the village.

Parking is usually easy. The parish council allow you to park at the village green and whilst there are no fixed charges are made for parking a donation towards the upkeep of the greens is request via the honesty boxes.

 It is a very small price to pay to park at the centre of the village, however be warned, if you visit on a public holiday parking can get very busy. Go early to make sure you get a spot.

Perhaps one of the nicest things about Reeth is its central location which makes it an ideal start or end point on a number of circular walking routes.

You can head down towards the river and slowly walk west before returning north towards the village green again. This is a fairly easy walk which will provide a pleasant stroll in most weather. Or if you’re feeling a little more adventurous you can head up the hill to tackle a more adventurous route up the side of the moor.

If the weather is particularly wet and you do not want to tackle any of the grassed routes, you can follow the road north and head towards Tan Hill where you will find the famous Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub in Britain and star of the Everest double glazing  and solar panel TV adverts.

Whichever route you take, don’t forget to make sure you have clothing and equipment suitable for all weathers. A sunny day can turn into a torrential downpour quite quickly, or even worse if you’re walking on higher ground, the mist can descend. The last time I visited Reeth, there was a timely reminder about going out unprepared with a display by the Mountain Rescue Team on the village green.

The former Kings Head where Charles Dickens stayed whilst researching information for his novel Nickolas Nickleby in February 1838.

Today you are more likely to see leisure cruise craft, ferries or speedboats on the river, however in years gone by you could have seen keelmen loading all types of different cargo on to ships [...]]]> The River Tyne has a long history, not merely as a waterway to the sea, but as a working river.

Today you are more likely to see leisure cruise craft, ferries or speedboats on the river, however in years gone by you could have seen keelmen loading all types of different cargo on to ships bound for ports worldwide.

The tradition of shipbuilding remains alive albeit on a much smaller scale. I’ll never forget seeing my first ship launch on to the river. For months the structure had been built at the Swan Hunter yard. Initially you could only hear the men working, then came the steel poking up over the railway line at the bottom of the terraced street. As the ship neared completion the light started to be blocked out and the ship dominate the view down the street. 

On a boiling hot sunny day it seemed as though the entire community had turned out to send the ship on its way. With a smash of a bottle of champagne on the steel side of the ship, a cheer from the crowd went up, as the massive structure slowly slide into the Tyne. Before we knew, the ship had been turned and sailed out to sea for it trials. Then the process began all over again with the next order.

The river has changed a lot since those days.

River-side apartments have sprung up on the north and south banks of the river. Even a new tilting bridge has been added that looks like a blinking eye when it is raised to let vessels pass up or downstream.

The arts have arrived in the shape of the Baltic Art Gallery to the left in the picture above, sitting just in front of a world class music venue that looks a little bit like an armadillo from the outside, The Sage.

In the middle ages, someone accused of a serious offence could claim sanctuary in Durham Cathedral by knocking on the door. Having knocked and claiming sanctuary the local constables were unable to take any further action in the precincts of the Cathedral, such was the [...]]]> The Sanctuary Knock on the northern door of Durham Cathedral

In the middle ages, someone accused of a serious offence could claim sanctuary in Durham Cathedral by knocking on the door. Having knocked and claiming sanctuary the local constables were unable to take any further action in the precincts of the Cathedral, such was the power of the Prince Bishops.

The fugitive from justice then had a period of thirty seven days in which they had to choose whether to stand trial in front of a magistrate or judge, or whether to leave the country by the nearest port.

Whilst the fearsome looking knocker on the north door looks really old, it is in fact a replica of the original. The original knocker remains on display within the cathedral in the Treasures of St Cuthbert exhibit.

View from the footpath across the river of the Cathedral towering over the city and the boathouse at the river-side.

Bolton Abbey is a beautiful village in North Yorkshire.